My version of Babystøvler

I made these shoes for my friend's baby shower gift based on the pictures of FO's and the progress shots on Ravelry, since I couldn't get the original pattern anywhere.

After finishing this project, I found that I made a little less numbers of ridges at the toe than the original, but I like it as is.


Here is how I made my version of Babystøvler;

• Yarn: DK / 8 ply weight yarn in 2 different colors
• Needle: US5/ 3.75mm or size to get the gauge
• Gauge: 6sts x 12rows (1”sq) in garter st
• Finished size: New born size / 3.5 inches measured at seam of the sole

Instructions

With main color, CO21sts.

Work 30 rows in garter st.

1st decrease row: k1, ssk, k to the end of the row
2nd decrease row: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Rep the two dec rows once more, and 1st dec row one more time. (16sts left)

1st increase row: k to last 2 sts, m1, k1.
2nd increase row: k1, m1, k to the end of the row
Rep the two inc rows once more, and 1st inc row one more time. (21sts left)

Work 29 rows in garter st.

Next row: BO 9sts, k to the end of the row.

With contrasting color, work 4 rows in st st.
With main color, work 4 rows in rev st st.
Rep these two rows 3 more times, and work the 4rows of st st in contrasting colors once more.

Sew the matching seams (same symbols in the picture) with a tapestry needle.
Sew along the ripple marked seam and pull it tight to form a round toe part.

I also sewed couple of sts at the beginning of the openings to make the ankle parts stand up better.

Barely a Clapotis!

• Needle: US 8 / 5.0 mm
• Yarn: Reynolds Soft Sea Wool 3 skeins (486.0 yds)

I started this with only 3 skeins of Reynold’s Soft Sea Wool I had in my stash. I did some research and found handy 1/5 rules of Clapotis. I blindly followed and the rule, thinking I would have a clap-o-scarf(I made up that name :P).

By the time I finished knitting 2 skeins, I realized that my clapotis wouldl be too short! I didn’t think it through that the original clapotis was a SHAWL, which meant the ratio of the width to the length would be bigger than a scarf! :(

Since I overdyed light blue yarn into lavender with KoolAid, there was no way I could get more of the same colored yarn! I considered many different options to solve the issue, such as buying more Soft Sea Wool in a different color and connecting by alternating the two colors as if I intentionally put stripes. However, another problem I ran into was that I couldn’t easily find more of Soft Sea Wool in the LYS close to my office or home (I bought them at The Yarn Connection right before they closed the store.)
Totally frogging and starting it over with a different yarn was not an option for me. Though I love wearing simple designs, I hate knitting one. It’s unbearable to me! Still I wanted to have a clapotis so bad!

So I kept on knitting, hoping that wet blocking will make it a little bit longer…and it worked like a magic! Even though it’s a little bit shorter that I initially hoped for, it’s still a wearable clapotis!
I’m so glad to be a proud owner of a clapotis! :D

The mods that I did other than making it smaller were purling sts that would be dropped instead of using stitch markers, and purling the sts tbl on the WS if it was k tbl on the RS.

Projects from the Past : TEMPTATION

• Finished: July 2005
  
  
• Winner of the ATEXINC Excellence in Marketable Textile Design award given by The International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Design Exhibition, 2005
  
  
• Material: 100% Silk Charmeuse (skirt)/ 100% Silk Habotai (bodice)

This is a digitally designed and printed dress. I made this when I was in the master's course. The printing pattern was designed by myself. Part of the famous painting "Adam and Eve" by Albrecht Dürer was incorporated into the pattern with other elements I drew with Adobe illustrator. After that the it was printed on pre-treated silk charmeuse and silk habotai using a large fabric printer.

Using the digital design, complicated designs can be placed on seam and still be continuous across the seamlines. (I was going blind to match the patterns when I sewed them together, though.)

Projects from the Past : BLOSSOM

• Finished: November 2004
  
  
• Material: 100% Silk Double Georgette
  
  
• The zipper is hidden under the curvy seam at the back

Some progress shots..

• Draping the pattern

• Muslin fitting

My DIY wedding dress!

Yes, you heard it. I made my own wedding dress, and successfully got married in April 25 in it! :D

I wanted to post the process on my blog, but I didn't have a time to write a post back then, and worried that I might not be able to finish up the dress as I planned.

It took me about a month (more accurately, about 4 hours per day for a month, because I have a full-time job!), about 13 yds of silk taffeta, 12 yds of silk organza, 6 yds of polyester lining and so many other notions.

I really wanted to make it look like it was professionally made. However, while I was doing the research on the materials - especially what kind of interlining and underlining I should use, I found that there is not much of information on the Internet.

I read many different books and Internet articles about the formal silk gown construction, but it was not enough. Luckily, I have a friend who is a vice-president of a high-end designer wedding dress production company and was able to get a lot of advise ( and most of materials as a gift!!!! :D) from her.

I tried to take pictures of each design and construction stage, so that it may help other bride-to-be who wants to make her own wedding gown.

In near future, I'll start posting tutorials on it.

(First I need to take more detailed picture of my dress, when the renovation on my apartment is done. Please bear with me in the mean time.)

No further explanation, here I present the pictures...

Ahhhh~why didn't anybody tell me that I was wearing the petticoat so short!! It ruined the silhouette! :( I was actully wearing the petticoat with the waist band rolled up, thinking it was too long..


The back drape(?) part is detachable, and the skirt can be bustled up for the reception like below.

My sister made me the veil and the feather accessory at the back of my waist.

The bodice part has asymmetric pleats..

How do you like it?

Aran off-shoulder pullover with crochet flowers

Size: fit bust size 33, 35, 37 and 39 inches.

Gauge : 22x28 (4x4")

Needles used : 3.25mm and 3.75mm

Yarn : knitpicks.com "Andean Treasure" 9 sk (or any equivalent amount of substituting yarns)

Price : $4.50

If you sent me the payment through Paypal to calista.yoo@gmail.com , I'll email you the pattern.
(I tried to make it automatically downloadable when you pay through Payloadz, but it did not work well. I'm temporarily bringing back the old system.)

* Please email me to calista.yoo@gmail.com if you want to receive my email to differnt email address from your paypal ID

Snowflakes for my lovely nephew~~

I knitted a fair isle hat and a pair of socks for my almost 4mo old nephew.

I used "Flakey Baby Socks pattern" by annypurls for the socks and whipped up the matching hat pattern using same yarn.

He is super cute wearing them!! :D

For those who wants to make a matching hat for these socks here's what I did.

Flakey Hat with Pompom

This pattern with 6sts=1" gauge (in 2-color st st) will make a hat of 16" circumference, and you can adjust the gauge or the pattern to make it larger or smaller.

• Materials
  - 4 x 4.0mm DPNs or 1 long circular needle for magic loop (I did the magic loop)
  - Fingering weight yarns in 2 different colors(I used FibraNatura Baby Merino) - each less than 25g (less than 1oz)
  - 1 stitch marker, tapestry needle

RIB
With color A (green in this case) CO 96 sts, join to knit in round placing a stitch marker at the beginning of a row.

work 5 rows of 2x2 rib as following ; p1, (k2, p2)* rep to last 3sts, k2, p1
(I do this instead of k2, p2 all around, because it hides beginning and ending point better.)

CROWN
Join color B (white) and knit each row of below chart 6 times.

When you are done knitting the chart, cut the yarn leaving a tail at least about 7".
Thread the tail through a tapestry needle and go through all remaining 12 sts.
Secure the sts and leave the tail yarn to sew the pompom on later.

Ear flaps
CO 15sts work 5 rows in st st.Row1(RS): sl1, ssk, k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1.Row2(WS): sl1, purl across.
Rep these two rows until 3sts are left.
Knit I-Cord with the remaining 3sts to make chin straps.
Make 2 ear flaps and sew them on the bottom hem of the hat.

Make a pompom ( you can get directions from the web) and sew it on at the top of the hat.
(You can block it before you sew the pompom on if you want)

DONE~~~~

Agate and Lace Scarf Pattern

Yoohoo~everybody~! I'm posting something in a million years!
This blog is still alive~yeah!

While I was posting this project on ravelry, I found that the webpage with the "Agate and Lace Scarf Pattern" exists no more! (original link : http://naiveknitting.typepad.com/naive_knitting_blog/2005/03/knit_report_ech.html)

It's a very simple, yet very beautiful scarf pattern.

I made it with 3.75mm needles with 5 repeats of the pattern, and it was about 6" wide. In order to get more lace effect, use larger needles than usually recommended for the yarn size.

You can adjust the needle or the yarn size as you want.


The pattern is as below;

CO multiply of 10sts + 3sts

Row1 (WS) : Purl all sts
Row2 (RS) : sl 1, k1, [yo, k3, sl1, k2tog, psso, k3, yo, k1] rep[] to last 1 stitch, k1

Rep these two rows until desired length, then Row1 one more time.

Loosely bind off all sts.

Block and sew the beads at the pointy parts.

* sl1, k2tog, psso (slip one, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over)

Tada~ You have a beautiful lace scarf.

TUTORIAL OF CROCHETED COIN PURSE

Finally! I’ve fini­shed the tutorial for this purse~!
As I warned earlier, it’s rather a tutorial showing how to make your own pattern than a pattern itself.
I’m not sure if this tutorial makes sense to other people.
I have some experience making knitting patterns, but never made a crochet pattern before.
Anyway, here it goes~!

STEP1. Measure the frame you have.

STEP2. Decide how full you want your purse to be. (FYI: mine was the 2nd option)
Draw the outline on a piece of paper and measure the width.

STEP3. Choose a bottom shape. (mine was ellipse.)
Then crochet the bottom part to make the circumference of the bottom to be same as twice of the width from STEP2.
If you don’t know how to crochet an ellipse shape, you can refer to the sole part of this pattern -> http://megan.kiwi.gen.nz/Bootee/instructionsUS.html
(I used SC stitches)

STEP 4. When the bottom reaches the size you need, keep crocheting straight up as below;
ROUND 1: ch2, hdc all around.
ROUND 2:
ch3, 6 dc only through the front loop of the first hdc of previous row, *7dc only through the front loop of the next hdc of previous row* rep from *to* all around the row.
Then, ch2, hdc only through the back loop of the hdc of row 1.
Rep the ROUND 2 until it reaches the height you want.

STEP 5. Crochet to make the top shape decided at STEP 2.
If you chose option1, you can simply add couple more rows of SC.
If you chose option2, crochet front and back side separately, decreasing both edges to make the shape you want.
If you chase option3, crochet front and back side separately, while keeping the edge straight up.

STEP 6. Sew the frame if yours has holes. Otherwise, glue them in.

Tada~You have a small wriggly purse!